Sakinoyu's (崎の湯) oceanside rotenburos, where you can sit, sip sake, and watch waves, are a must-see, must-do for anyone visiting Shirahama, but there are about seven other baths to hit along the inlet shore, all within about 20 minutes' walk from each other, and more if you include the hotel establishments, some of which offer higaeri for non-staying guests.
Shirahama, depending on what time you come, will either seem like a ghost town or be packed with people. The crowds make the baths less peaceful, but the fireworks on the beach, kids playing, sunbathers during the day all make an in-season stay more fun. The white sand (imported from Australia!) and warm waters make it a popular summer spot, and there's a low-key, friendly vibe that makes it fun even when there's lots of people around. Traveling hermits (or those who just don't want a horde of other bathers to spoil a contemplative bathing moment) should be sure to visit in late autumn or early spring when it's still too chilly for sunbathing. Water is hot, with a nice rich sulfur aroma and a lot of salt. Muronoyu (牟婁の湯) is simple but has two baths, one slightly hotter than the other, both of which are very relaxing. Shirarayu (白良湯)'s second floor location gives it a nice view of the beach and fireworks. Most baths here expect you to bring or buy soap, shampoo, and towels, and only simple amenities are provided, but the upside is that the most expensive fee is only 300 yen.
There are numerous lodging choices, from fairly inexpensive to the super-pricey, so shop around before deciding where to stay. Or contact us for help making reservations.