GETOU ONSEN

Getou Onsen is at the end of a winding, precipitous road...once you're here, you're here. Though damaged by earthquakes in 2008, Getou remains a spectacular spot to visit, and the collection of rotenburo, most of them konyoku, make for wonderful soaks. Prepare yourself for some skin-scalding temperatures too, especially at the Daiyu (大湯), which apparently has gotten cooler since the earthquake.

There's not much here in tiny Getou other than the baths, so plan on relaxing. Be sure to meander down to the river and across on the little foot bridge -- there's a nice bath on the opposite side of the river that may be less crowded (or even empty!), and it offers a wonderful view and the soothings sounds of the river. The water is high in calcium and sodium chloride, and supposedly aids a variety of ailments, including nervous disorders, arthritis, and skin diseases.

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